FYI I did sand the side a little bit, but either I still need to keep going, or there’s something I’m missing. It’s not that easy to see in the pictures, but I am sanding some of the coating away for sure, and I feel like it’s starting to sand off some of the actual body material. I’m still not seeing anything close to your picture.

Oh well, thanks for the tips! I’ll keep the lock as a souvenir and at some point continue sanding and tinkering with it.

I think it might be beyond repair.

yes, this seems to be the answer

being the genius that I am 😁 , I imagined that I would just put the driver pin on top of the key pin, put the spring on top of that, and then compress everything as I slid the cylinder in. It’s obvious to me now how that is impossible, but it took me actually seeing it to understand. The picture on the left below shows how hilariously far off I was in my thinking.

So I instead put the spring into the lock body, then balanced the driver pin on top of that, which is what you can see in the picture on the right. While putting all of the springs back in would be fairly easy (having not actually tried it of course!), that driver pin is barely hanging on there. I could probably do one, specifically that very first one, but I doubt you could manage to compress all of them and then slide in the cylinder.

At least I am learning more about how everything works, and in the picture on the left below, I think I figured out which order the pins go, or at least got really close. I’m pretty sure there were only 4 key pins, assuming the fifth spring paired with the retaining pin.

On the right pictures, you can see the inserted 6 pin comb that I used to create this fine piece of deconstruction. It seems like that pin sticking out at the far left (#6 in my original picture) could have been responsible for my problems. I guess one of my lessons learned is to know how many pins there are, and then use a comb with a matching number of pins or less.

Let me know if there’s anything else to try, or if anyone wants a picture of something specific.

FYI this specific lock came in a set of 4, the Master Lock 140Q, purchased in December 2016 from Amazon.

oh, I see. I was expecting them to be a lot harder to see. I can’t easily see these caps on the side of the body.

Thanks for the tips, I’ll try out a few things later today.

Hee Hee Hee… Not seen one pulled apart like that😆

haha! I’m glad to be a trailblazer for the community 😜

I didn’t even know what I did was possible. I tried my best to find something online that showed how to rekey a 140, and while I saw many posts showing the 140 as someone’s first pick, I didn’t find any videos showing the disassembly process. It never occurred to me that I could pull out the whole cylinder like that, using just a comb.

Thanks for that video link, it helped me understand a few things. I couldn’t see the caps on the side of my lock body, but I did see one on the front. I’ll take a picture later.

My vote is to return it.

I have an X mount on my X-T4 and several zooms and primes from Fujifilm, Viltrox, and Tamron.

None of them have any play in the mount after it’s clicked in.

If your other lenses have similar problems, maybe it’s an issue with the body.

Otherwise if this is the only lens with that issue, and others with that lens don’t have similar issues, I would return it.

If everything you’re running is in a Docker container, you can see if the underlying NAS OS has or can support Docker. If so, you could consider migrating some apps since that kind of migration should be pretty straightforward depending on how you setup your containers.

I have a Synology NAS and I went from managing my containers through Synology apps to just running everything through the command line directly.

More recently I stumbled onto Homepage (https://gethomepage.dev/) to keep an eye on my apps, and I started using the free edition of Portainer (CE, https://github.com/portainer/portainer) to manage my containers. I even have two Portainer containers running on different servers and I can manage them directly from one Portainer instance.

Individually Homepage and Portainer were game changers for me since they solved specific gaps I had in my manual processes.

If you’re in the mood to rethink your entire setup, I would recommend looking into Homepage and / or Portainer.

I progressively migrated containers into Portainer stacks while also putting everything into Homepage, so I just moved along at my own pace.

I’ve had trouble with the battery in a wireless Keychron.

Have you looked into building your own keyboard or finding keyboards with replaceable mechanical switches?

I know you said 100%, but for example, in a quick search I found the Razer BlackWidow V4 75 has replaceable switches.

What I ended up getting was an ErgoDox EZ split keyboard. Before deciding on switches I bought a pack of switch samples from Amazon to see what I wanted. It was great to be able to configure the keyboard with the exact feel I wanted, and have the options of swapping if a switch breaks down or I want a different feel.

The fire fighting plane is the Canadair CL-415 (Super Scooper) – https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canadair_CL-415

Plane getting water – https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=TLys5Wa7zhg

Plane dropping water – https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=2fH5kdShKNw

Can you give more information about how you plan to use the computer? For example, what software do you use for work, what kinds of games do you play, for the games are you trying to achieve a specific frame rate at a specific resolution, etc.?

What was it with the old build that made it feel old?

For the build itself, do you have a budget in mind? Are there any specific parts you weren’t sure about?

If it helps any, the fan swap for the TP-Link switch TL-SG3210XHP-M2 was for the same size fan, so airflow and speed should be the same, it’s just a much quieter fan. I went with the Noctua NF-A4x20 FLX 40x20mm. I’m in the same room as the switch, about 5 feet away, and the 7200 rpm hard drives in the NAS sound louder than the fans on the switch.

Have you looked into the TP-Link Omada switches? This 8 port has been working well in a home environment - https://www.tp-link.com/us/business-networking/omada-switch-poe/tl-sg3210xhp-m2/.

Fans are LOUD, but the fans can be swapped out for quieter ones if you don’t mind the fan error light. For example, see https://www.rootusers.com/how-to-fix-tp-link-tl-sx1008-switch-fan-noise.

Congrats!

Any tips for someone who is starting out and not able to get a win?